For imitation jewellery, a common choice is ISO 2859-1 (the US equivalent is ANSI/ASQ Z1.4) at general inspection level II, with an AQL of 0 for critical defects, 2.5 for major defects and 4.0 for minor ones. Those levels are typical rather than mandatory; what matters most is that you define which defects fall in each class for your products.
AQL stands for acceptance quality limit. It sets how many defective pieces are allowed in a random sample before the whole lot fails.
How the sampling works
The standard gives a sample size for each lot size and inspection level. Level II is the usual default. For each AQL, a table gives the largest number of defective pieces the sample may contain and still pass. If the sample has more than that, the lot fails and the maker must sort or rework it before re-inspection.
For orders with many designs, decide whether the lot is the whole order or each design. Inspecting per design catches a single bad style that would otherwise be hidden by good ones.
Defining the classes for jewellery
- Critical (AQL 0): anything unsafe or illegal, such as sharp edges or burrs, small parts that detach from children's items, or a mismatch with the tested material.
- Major: defects a customer would return, such as missing or loose stones, plating worn through or peeling, a broken clasp, the wrong design, colour or size.
- Minor: small cosmetic faults that most customers would accept, such as a faint mark on a hidden surface or a slight glue trace under a stone.
Tighter or looser
Premium brands and online sellers, who pay for every return, often tighten the major level to 1.5 or the minor to 2.5. Buyers of low-priced wholesale assortments sometimes accept looser levels. Whatever you choose, use the same levels for every order and every maker, so the reports can be compared.
Remember that AQL is a statistical tool, not a promise. An order that passes at 2.5 can still contain some defective pieces, so allow for that in your returns budget.
Checks outside the AQL count
Some checks are done on a small number of pieces regardless of the sample size: plating thickness measurements, a salt-spray or sweat test, or an XRF screen for nickel, lead and cadmium. Specify these separately in the order.
What this means for a buyer
Choose your levels, write down your defect classes and put both in the purchase order. Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We inspect jewellery to your AQL and defect list and report results by design. Start with a free sourcing review.