Choosing lead-free and nickel-free materials means controlling four things: the base metal, the solder, the findings and the plating stack. Ask for a low-lead brass or copper base, a nickel-free underlayer below the gold or rhodium, cadmium-free and lead-free solder, and findings from a supplier who can show test results. Then confirm with lab tests on bulk pieces, because labels alone are not proof.
For reference, the EU limits nickel release to 0.5 micrograms per square centimetre per week for items in prolonged skin contact and 0.2 for piercing posts, and REACH restricts lead in jewellery to 0.05% by weight. These are the numbers your materials must meet.
Base metal
- Brass is the common base in Rajkot. Some brass alloys contain lead added for machinability, so ask for a low-lead or lead-free grade and test it.
- Copper bases are usually low in lead but softer and more prone to tarnish.
- Zinc alloy castings are cheaper but more likely to contain lead or cadmium impurities if the metal source is poor.
- Stainless steel and sterling silver are alternatives for pieces where skin contact is the main concern.
Plating stack
Nickel is often used as a bright, hard layer under gold or rhodium because it is cheap and helps the top layer look even. Once the top layer wears, the nickel touches the skin. Ask for a nickel-free underlayer such as copper, bronze or palladium, and write it into the order.
Plating thickness matters too. A thicker top coat wears through more slowly, which helps both with appearance and with any metal below.
Solder, findings and stones
Solder joints are a common source of cadmium and lead, so ask what solder is used. Clasps, jump rings and earring posts are often bought in from separate suppliers, so they need their own checks. Earring posts deserve the most attention because they sit inside the skin.
Painted or enamelled parts and glued stones can carry lead in the paint or adhesive. Include them in testing.
Verify, then lock
Screen materials with an XRF analyser where one is available, then send pieces to an accredited lab for the formal test. Once materials pass, list them in the purchase order and ban changes. See what a jewellery purchase order should include.
Ask suppliers of findings and solder for their own material declarations as well. A workshop that buys clasps and posts from a trader in the market may not know their make-up, so test them separately the first time and whenever the source changes. Earring posts and hooks are worth testing on every new lot.
What this means for a buyer
Safe materials cost a little more, but far less than a failed shipment. Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We confirm materials with Rajkot workshops, have samples tested at NABL-accredited labs and supervise packing. Ask for a free sourcing review.