A garment typically passes through four or five sample stages before production: a proto or development sample, a fit sample, a size set and a pre-production (PP) sample, with a salesman or photo sample added when the style is being sold ahead of manufacture. After production starts there are two more, the top of production (TOP) sample and the shipment sample. Each stage answers a different question, and skipping one usually moves the question into bulk production, where it costs far more to answer.
Not every programme needs every stage. A repeat order of a uniform style that has not changed may need only a PP sample, while a new fashion style with a new fabric will need the full sequence.
The stages and what each one proves
- Proto or development sample: the first attempt, often in substitute fabric, to check that the design works and the construction is understood. Expect it to be rough.
- Fit sample: made in the base size, in the correct or a close fabric, and checked on a fit model or form against your measurement spec. There may be two or three rounds.
- Size set: one piece in each size of the range, to prove the grading rules before bulk cutting.
- Salesman or photo sample: a presentable sample in the correct fabric and colour for showrooms, catalogues and online listings, sometimes made in several colourways.
- Pre-production (PP) sample: made in bulk fabric with bulk trims, labels and packing, and sealed by both sides as the standard against which production is judged.
- Top of production (TOP) sample: pulled from the first garments off the line to confirm that bulk matches the sealed PP sample.
- Shipment sample: taken from packed cartons at final inspection so that you can see exactly what was shipped.
Managing the sequence as a buyer
Give written comments on every sample within a few days of receiving it, and keep the comments on one document that travels with the style. Factories lose time waiting for feedback far more often than they lose it in sewing, and vague approval such as a short message that it looks fine is not something you can hold them to later.
Ask for a duplicate of each approved sample. One stays with the factory, one stays with you, and if a dispute arises at inspection both sides are looking at the same reference. For the PP sample this is essential.
Plan the calendar backwards from the ship date. Each round of sampling usually takes two to four weeks, so three fit rounds plus a size set and a PP sample can consume several months before a single production garment is cut.
How we help
We attend the sampling room during factory visits, check samples against your spec before they are couriered, and keep counter-samples of everything approved. We seal the PP sample, send sealed samples to an NABL-accredited lab where testing is needed, and follow through with inline and final inspection and loading supervision. You get weekly updates, one approved supplier plus one backup, and a free 20-minute sourcing review to start.