Sublimation printing uses heat to turn disperse dye into a gas that bonds with polyester fibre, usually by printing the design onto transfer paper and then pressing the paper against the fabric at high temperature. It suits 100 percent polyester and does not work on cotton, viscose or other cellulose fibres, because the dye has nothing to bond with. The result is a print that sits inside the fibre rather than on top of it, so it does not crack, peel or stiffen the fabric and has good wash fastness. In Surat, sublimation is widely used for polyester fashion fabrics, sportswear, scarves and home textiles.
How the process works
The design is printed in reverse onto a coated paper using sublimation inks on a wide-format printer. The paper is then run through a heated calender with the fabric, or pressed flat, typically at temperatures between about 180 and 210 degrees Celsius for under a minute. The heat vaporises the dye, which penetrates the polyester and solidifies as it cools. No steaming or washing is needed afterwards, which keeps the process short and reduces water use compared with direct printing.
Direct sublimation, where the ink is printed onto the fabric and then fixed in a heated calender, is also used for heavier fabrics and banners. Transfer paper usually gives sharper detail on fine wovens, so it remains the common route for fashion fabrics.
Fabrics that suit sublimation
- 100 percent polyester wovens such as georgette, chiffon, crepe, satin and taffeta, which are the main Surat products.
- Polyester knits, including interlock, single jersey and mesh used for sportswear.
- Polyester microfibre and peach-skin finishes, which give a soft hand with sharp print detail.
- Polyester with a small elastane content, provided the heat does not damage the elastane and the fabric is pressed without tension.
- White or very light base fabrics, since sublimation dye is transparent and cannot print light colours on a dark ground.
Fabrics that do not suit it
Cotton, linen, viscose and rayon will not hold sublimation dye, and any print will wash out or look faded from the start. Blends with less than roughly two-thirds polyester give a washed-out or heathered effect, which is sometimes wanted but usually not. Nylon can be sublimated in some cases but with poorer fastness, and heat-sensitive fabrics may shrink or glaze under the press. If a supplier offers sublimation on a viscose or cotton quality, the fibre content should be checked before anything else.
Fastness also drops on polyester that has been poorly heat set. The fabric keeps shrinking under the press, the print distorts and the shade can shift between the first and last metres of a roll.
How we help
We visit the process units doing the transfer printing and check fibre content, press temperature control and paper quality, which together decide the result. We audit the units, send sealed samples to an NABL-accredited lab for fibre composition and colour fastness, inspect rolls before loading and supervise loading. Weekly updates keep you informed, and we hold one approved printer plus one backup. A free 20-minute sourcing review helps if you are deciding whether your range should move to sublimation.