EPI and PPI are the number of ends (warp yarns) and picks (weft yarns) per inch of a woven fabric, and thread count is simply the two added together. A fabric described as 60 by 60 has 60 warp ends and 60 weft picks per inch, giving a thread count of 120. The construction line on an Indian mill's specification sheet usually reads as yarn count by yarn count, then EPI by PPI, for example 40s x 40s, 132 x 72 for a poplin. Read together with the yarn count and the GSM, these figures tell you how dense and how fine the cloth is.
Why the numbers matter
Higher EPI and PPI at the same yarn count mean a tighter, firmer cloth with better cover, usually better seam strength and less tendency to slip at the seams. Lower figures give a more open and softer fabric that may be cheaper per metre but can show seam slippage or skew if the construction is too loose for the end use. The balance between EPI and PPI also changes the hand and the look. A poplin with far more ends than picks has a fine rib in the weft direction, while a square construction looks and drapes more evenly.
What to check on a specification
- Yarn count in both directions, stated as Ne (English cotton count), and whether the yarn is single or plied.
- EPI and PPI stated as finished figures rather than loom-state figures, since finishing usually tightens the picks.
- GSM, which should be consistent with the construction and yarn count; if it is not, one of the figures is wrong.
- Weave type, since the same numbers feel very different in plain weave, twill and satin.
- A tolerance on the construction, typically a few per cent either way, written into the contract.
The problem with inflated thread counts
Thread count became a marketing figure in bed linen, and the way it is counted is not always honest. Some sellers count each individual ply of a two-ply or three-ply yarn as a separate thread, so a 200 count sheet woven from two-ply yarn is sold as a 400 count. The fabric is not finer or denser; it is the same cloth with a bigger number.
ASTM D3775 describes a method for counting ends and picks, and a reputable lab will report the number of yarns per inch, not the number of plies. For apparel the thread count figure is rarely used at all, and EPI by PPI on the specification is what matters. If a quotation leads with thread count alone, ask for the full construction and the yarn count, and treat a very high count at a low price with caution.
How Creston & Co helps
We visit the mills in Ahmedabad and across Gujarat in person, and we send sealed samples to an NABL-accredited lab so the construction, yarn count and GSM are checked independently rather than taken from the mill's sheet. We inspect rolls before loading, supervise the loading and send you a weekly update. If you are comparing specifications from several Indian mills, a free 20-minute sourcing review is an easy place to start.