Your eyes and hands in India · Est. 2019 · Replies within one working day

Typical fabric MOQs from Indian mills and how to work with them

Woven fabric from a composite mill usually starts in the low thousands of metres per colour, while stock-service traders will sell much smaller lots.

· 3 min read · Creston & Co

The minimum order quantity (MOQ) for woven fabric from an Indian composite mill is usually in the low thousands of metres per colour, and often higher for a new construction or a custom print. Stock-service traders and converters sell from a few hundred metres upwards, sometimes less, because they hold greige or finished fabric in inventory and are not scheduling loom time for you. The right figure depends on what you are asking the mill to do, not only on how much you want to buy.

The mill sets its minimum from the economics of each stage. A warp beam, a dye lot and a print run each carry a fixed set-up cost, and the mill wants that cost spread over enough metres to make the article worth running. Understanding those stages helps you negotiate rather than simply ask for a lower number.

What drives the minimum

  • Yarn and warp. Sizing and beaming a warp for a new construction takes time and material. Standard constructions in standard counts have the lowest minimums because a similar warp may already be on the loom.
  • Dyeing. A jet or continuous dyeing lot has a practical minimum, so MOQ is usually quoted per colour. Solid dyed fabric in a mill's running shades is easier to get in small lots than a custom shade matched to your lab dip.
  • Printing. Rotary screen printing needs an engraved screen for each colour, so the minimum per design and colourway is usually higher than for solid dyed goods. Digital printing has lower minimums but a higher cost per metre.
  • Finishing. Special finishes such as peach, enzyme wash or water repellency add set-up and may raise the minimum.
  • Width and weight. Unusual widths or very heavy or very light GSM constructions limit which looms can run the article, which raises the minimum.

Mill, converter or stock service

A composite mill in Ahmedabad producing denim, shirting or sheeting will quote the highest minimums but gives the best consistency and documentation. A converter buys greige from weaving units and processes it at a job-work house, so minimums are lower and the converter will often accept several colours in one order. A stock-service supplier sells finished fabric off the shelf and is the right choice for sampling, small capsule ranges and trial orders.

Surat synthetics follow the same logic. Powerloom units and printers there work in smaller lots than the large mills, and the market is used to short runs across many designs. Cotton from Saurashtra enters the chain as fibre and yarn, so minimums for cotton fabric are set by whichever mill weaves it.

How to get below the published minimum

  • Choose from the mill's running qualities and shade cards rather than developing a new article.
  • Combine colours on one greige base so the loom runs one construction and only the dye lots are split.
  • Ask for a surcharge quote. Many mills will run a smaller lot at a higher price per metre rather than refuse outright.
  • Place a sample order first and agree the bulk minimum in the same discussion, so the mill sees the programme and not just the first lot.
  • Confirm whether the minimum is per article, per colour or per order, and have it written into the pro forma invoice.

How we help

We hold current minimums and lead times for the mills and converters we have visited, so we can tell you quickly which supplier fits a given quantity. We check that the supplier's running qualities match your specification before you commit to a development, and we propose one approved supplier plus one backup for each fabric. A free 20-minute sourcing review is the easiest way to start.

More from the blog

Free · 20 minutes · No obligation

Start with a free 20-minute sourcing call.

Tell us the product, the spec and the volume. We'll tell you what it should cost from India, what to test for and where the risks are. No fee, no obligation, and you keep the notes.