Polki is jewellery set with uncut, unpolished diamonds that keep a natural, flat and irregular shape. The stones are usually set in gold using the kundan technique, with a foil backing that gives them a soft glow rather than the bright sparkle of a cut diamond. Polki is one of the most expensive forms of traditional Indian bridal jewellery.
Imitation polki gives the same look at a far lower price, using uncut-style CZ or glass stones in gold-plated brass or copper.
Polki and kundan
The two terms are often used together, and many pieces combine them. Kundan describes the setting technique and, in imitation work, the flat glass stones. Polki describes the stones themselves: uncut diamonds, or in imitation work, stones made to look like uncut diamonds.
How imitation polki is made
- Stones are cut to imitate the flat, slightly uneven look of uncut diamonds, in CZ or glass.
- Each stone is backed with metallic foil to create the soft polki glow.
- Stones are set into a cast or stamped brass or copper frame, in kundan style.
- The piece is gold plated, often in a matte or antique finish, and finished with pearls, beads or enamel.
Quality points
- The stones should look milky-clear and glowing, not glassy or flat grey.
- Stone shapes should vary naturally but match across a set.
- Foil backing should be even, without dark patches or visible edges.
- Settings should be firm, with no visible adhesive.
- The back of the piece should be finished neatly, since buyers check it.
Who buys it
Imitation polki sells mainly to brides, wedding guests and the South Asian diaspora, and in premium festive collections. It sits above most AD and simple kundan pieces in price, so it suits a premium tier. Like kundan, it is sensitive to water and needs careful packing.
Describe it honestly
Do not call imitation pieces polki diamonds. Describe the stones as polki-style CZ or glass, and the metal and plating accurately. Our guide on kundan jewellery covers the setting technique in more detail.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We check stones, setting and plating on samples and bulk goods and supervise packing. Start with a free sourcing review.