In imitation kundan jewellery, each stone is a piece of glass or synthetic stone with a thin foil behind it, pressed into a metal cup and held with lac or a modern adhesive. The edges are then closed with a gold-coloured rim so the stone looks framed in gold, as it would be in traditional kundan work.
A well-set piece that is kept dry and stored properly can look good for years of occasional wear. Pieces fail early when the cups are shallow, the adhesive is weak, or the set is exposed to heat, water or perfume.
The setting process, step by step
- Frame: the design is cast or built in brass or alloy, with small cups (collets) where each stone will sit.
- Base: lac or adhesive is filled into the cups to hold the stone and give it a level seat.
- Foil: a thin foil, often coloured, is placed behind the stone to give it brightness and colour.
- Stone: the stone is pressed in and levelled with its neighbours.
- Rim: the edges are closed with gold-coloured foil or by pushing the cup edge over, which hides the join.
- Finish: the piece is plated or given its antique or matte finish, and pearls, beads or drops are added.
What makes a set last
- Deep, well-formed cups so the stone sits inside the metal, not on top of it.
- Even, fully filled adhesive with no gaps behind the stone.
- Clean foil without creases, so the stone stays bright.
- A good plating or lacquer layer on the frame to slow tarnish.
What shortens its life
- Heat: lac softens, so sets left in hot cars or containers can lose stones.
- Moisture: water behind a stone dulls or darkens the foil.
- Perfume, hairspray and lotions, which attack adhesives and plating.
- Knocks and pressure, especially when sets are stored loose together.
Checking kundan before you buy
On samples, press each stone gently and look at it from the side to see how deep it sits. Look for glue on the surface, uneven heights and dull or patchy foil. On bulk goods, inspect a sample of sets in good light and check that packing keeps each set flat and separated.
What this means for a buyer
Kundan quality is decided at the setter's bench, so it pays to check the work, not only the photos. Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing, visits kundan workshops in Rajkot, checks stone setting before packing and supervises how sets are packed. Ask for a free sourcing review.