Stones in jewellery are held in one of a few ways: metal prongs that grip the stone, a metal rim called a bezel, many tiny metal beads in a pavé setting, or adhesive. Most imitation jewellery uses glue or cast-in settings, while CZ and Western pieces more often use prongs and pavé.
The setting method affects security, sparkle, cost and how the piece survives shipping.
Prong or claw setting
Small metal claws are bent over the edge of the stone. Prongs let light in from the sides, so CZ looks brighter. They hold well when properly closed, but prongs can catch on clothing and lift, and a lifted prong is a common cause of lost stones.
Bezel setting
A thin wall of metal surrounds the stone and is pressed over its edge. Bezels are very secure and protect the stone's edges, which suits glass and softer stones. They hide part of the stone and let in less light, so the look is calmer.
Pavé and micro-pavé
Many small stones are set close together, each held by small beads of metal raised from the surface. Pavé creates a surface of sparkle and is common in CZ rings, earrings and pendants. Micro-pavé uses even smaller stones and needs skilled setters and good magnification. Poor pavé loses stones quickly.
Glue setting
Stones are fixed into cups or recesses with adhesive. This is the most common method in low and mid-priced imitation jewellery, including many kundan, temple and fashion pieces. It is fast and cheap, and it works well when the cup fits the stone and the glue is right for the materials.
Glue settings are weaker against impact, heat and moisture. Stones can fall out if the cup is too shallow, the glue is applied unevenly or the piece is cleaned with water or ultrasound.
Other settings you will see
- Channel: stones sit in a row between two metal walls, common in bands and bracelets.
- Kundan setting: stones are set with gold foil or a foil-like material pressed around them, the traditional look in kundan jewellery.
- Tension or invisible settings: rare in imitation jewellery because they need precise work.
What this means for a buyer
Name the setting method on your order and approve a sample that uses it. If you choose glue settings, ask what adhesive is used and test security on samples. The casting, stamping and die-making guide explains how settings are formed.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We check setting quality in Rajkot workshops and supervise packing. Ask for a free sourcing review.