Your eyes and hands in India · Est. 2019 · Replies within one working day

Surgical steel in jewellery: is it really hypoallergenic?

Surgical steel is a marketing term for stainless steel grades such as 316L. It suits most people, but it contains nickel, so it is not safe for everyone.

· 4 min read · Creston & Co

Surgical steel is not a single defined material. In jewellery it usually means stainless steel of grade 316L, sometimes a higher-purity implant grade, and while most people wear it without trouble, it contains nickel and can still cause reactions in people with a strong nickel allergy. So it is low risk, but calling it fully hypoallergenic overstates it.

This matters for your listings and your returns. Nickel allergy is one of the most common contact allergies, and earrings are where it shows most.

Why steel with nickel can still be safe

What causes a reaction is the nickel that leaves the metal and reaches the skin, not the nickel inside it. In 316L the nickel is locked into a stable, corrosion-resistant structure, so very little is released. That is why the EU measures nickel release, not nickel content.

Release rises with sweat, scratches, poor polishing and low-quality steel. Two pieces sold as surgical steel can behave quite differently, which is why a test report is worth more than the label.

Grades you may be offered

  • 304: common, cheaper stainless steel. Fine for many uses, less resistant to corrosion than 316L.
  • 316L: the usual jewellery grade, with molybdenum for better corrosion resistance and low carbon.
  • Implant grade steel: a cleaner, tightly specified version made for medical implants. Better for piercing jewellery, and more expensive.

Better options for sensitive skin

  • Implant grade titanium and niobium, which contain no nickel.
  • Sterling silver and gold of 14 carat and above, for posts and hooks.
  • Medical-grade plastic posts, often used for sensitive-ear earrings.

Rajkot and steel

Rajkot is not a major steel jewellery cluster, but steel or titanium posts and hooks can be fitted to brass or alloy earring fronts. That combination gives you an Indian design with a safer part touching the skin. Make sure the plating on the front does not cover the post in a nickel underlayer.

What this means for a buyer

Avoid the word hypoallergenic unless you can back it with a test report, and name the grade instead. Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing: we confirm the materials on each part, have samples tested at NABL-accredited labs for nickel release and supervise packing. Ask for a free sourcing review.

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