Filigree is a technique of twisting very fine metal wire into scrolls and loops, then soldering it into open, lace-like patterns. True filigree is handmade and slow, and in India it is best known in silver from Cuttack in Odisha and Karimnagar in Telangana.
Much of the filigree-style jewellery in the fashion market is not made this way. It is cast or stamped to look like filigree, which is cheaper and faster but less delicate.
Handmade and machine-made compared
- Handmade filigree: built from wire by hand, very fine and light, with small variations between pieces. Higher cost and longer lead times.
- Cast filigree-look: made from a mould, so pieces are identical and quick to produce, but the detail is heavier and less open.
- Stamped filigree-look: pressed from sheet metal, very light and low-cost, best for earrings and pendants.
How to tell them apart
Look closely at the wires. In handmade filigree, you can see individual twisted wires and small solder points. Cast pieces show smooth, uniform lines with no twist, and the back often looks flat and solid.
Ask the maker which method they use and approve a sample made the same way as bulk.
Sourcing it
Rajkot makers mainly produce cast and stamped filigree-look pieces in brass and alloy. For true handmade filigree, especially in silver, specialist craft centres are the better source. Describe the product honestly: filigree-style for cast pieces, handmade filigree only when it is.
What this means for a buyer
Decide whether you need true filigree or the look, since the two differ in price, lead time and supply base. Our article on casting, stamping and die-making explains the machine-made methods.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We confirm how pieces are made, have samples tested at NABL-accredited labs and supervise packing. Start with a free sourcing review.